Because I know I'll forget it if I don't get it written down, here's the shopping list for the Bushmaster now that it's back together...
Railed handguard (Is Tapco decent? I didn't want to spend a fortune, and I've had good luck with Tapco products in the past)
Pistol grip (gotta match the dark earth theme)
Buffer retainer spring (DPMS or Olympic are MidwayUSA's only offerings, any difference?) X2
Buffer retainer (same caveat as spring, DPMS/Oly)
Takedown spring X2
Forend grip (wide open for suggestions here; this is one of those places where you can spend a small fortune on any number of forend grips...)
Buffer extension tube (for ACE Skeleton stock)
Armorer's wrench
Screwdriver set (any suggestions? Figured it was time to get a dedicated set of screwdrivers/drivers)
Any other small parts I should think about picking up?
That is all.
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22 comments:
Re: screwdrivers
You can get a set of jeweler's screwdrivers at any hardware store. However, if you're looking specifically for screwdrivers for use on guns, there must be somebody somewhere who makes such a thing. I'd suggest searching the Web for "gunsmith screwdrivers" and see what comes up.
I'd be interested in the suggestions for a set of gunsmith screwdrivers as well. It's on my list of "gifts to buy myself because nobody bought them for me for Christmas". I looked through Midway's offerings a month or 2 ago, and it seemed like everything affordable had reviews calling them crap, and everything rated really high cost so much that if I reaqlly needed one to get a screw out it would be cheaper to just buy a new gun. I've worked as a machinist and a mechanic, so I know the value of quality tools, but there is no reason small screwdrivers needs to cost $20-30 each.
Bayonet? ;-)
I got one of the Chapman screwdriver sets from Midway USA last year and it is a great set.
wolfwalker,
Really, what I'm looking for is what NOT to buy - i.e. "I bought a set of Brand X screwdrivers and they're made out of compressed peanut sweepings", that sort of thing...
mopar,
No kidding. I mean, I appreciate the idea of buying quality tools as much as the next guy, but some of those sets are INSANE.
Borepatch,
One of the reasons I want a forend with rails is so I can put on one of the LaserLyte bayonets and still be within MA law... ;)
Midway USA and Brownells have gunsmith screw driver sets. As well as punches. Both come in handy for general maintenance, not just for the AR. I bought a screwdriver set when I started buying MilSurps and it's paid for itself a few time over.
Get an extra cam pin and a couple of firing pin retain pins. If you lose one, you'll have at least one spare. Also, I bought a replacement one piece gas ring for the bolt. I also got a set of AR15 specific cleaning brushes and a .22 bore snake just for the AR.
The Tapco Handguards are about the cheapest you can go, and with these... you get what you pay for. Ive been reading your blog for a while but i cant remember the intended use for your Bushy but if its for defending your family/self or anything serious i would not go with this product. Absolute bottom of the barrel. I would go aluminum for serious purposes. Daniel Defense Omega and the likes. Expect to pay $200-$300 for a qualitly one. Or you could go used... which isnt a bad idea and all you have to do is look around. I would stay away from any plastic rail system like that Tapco deal.
-Will
A "Handguard Removal Tool" will save your fingers and keep The Boy and Baby Girl G from hearing words they shouldn't.
Add to list : 37mm flare launcher
:)
Jay,
One word of function about forends. Anything that cheap and a quick install will not be solid enough for optics. Those quick attach systems use your spring & delta ring to clamp the handguard against the front sight base. Check out how much you can twist/pull/push your stock handguards. That situation will remain.
'Freefloat' handguards are rock solid, but significantly more expensive and installation is a little more improved. They require removal of the barrel nut (including the gas tube & front sight). The cheapest you can get in is probably one of the YHM forends. Good product though.
+1 on the handguard removal tool.
One question: Just how much crap do you plan to hang on your fore end?
Personally, rail farms don't do anything for me, but if all you want is one Picatinny rail, you can buy a decent one that bolts directly on the bottom side of your Bushmaster fore end. I bought mine at Cheaper Than Dirt for $15.
There resides a 3 position swing-away tactical light mount, or if I'm at the range, a folding bipod. That's all I figure I'd ever need.
Get DPMS kit and also their armourers wrench. Good stuff.
If all you want to put on your rails is a laser and / or flashlight, I'd avoid the railed handguard and get either a railed front sight tower block or the one that bolts to the bayonet lug. Or you can get a cheap section of rail that bolts on to your standard handguards. I wouldn't recommend this for a VFG, howevers.
As for spare parts, I recommend at least one but preferably two each of: spare firing pin, extractor, extractor pin, extractor spring and black insert nub, and cotter pin. A complete spare bolt head is also a good idea. A steel charging handle is also a smart and cheap upgrade, and an extended charging handle latch is also pretty handy.
As for screwdrivers, save up and buy Brownells set. It's worth every damn penny.
screwdrivers: Midway or Chapman are very good. Remember hollow grounds only, tapered will mess up everything by only torquing the upper edges
punches: Craftsmen from Sears because you will break them and they will replace them for free, but i keep a couple of brass punches and brass roll pin punches around as well they are a must.
Another great thing is a block to work with to drive out those pins, I use a hockey puck with a 1/2 inch hole through it and a 1/2inch groove across it; it makes popping out pins without ruining your finish easy. Do you have a vice? if not get a Wilton and some rubber jaw covers.
I recall the ACE stock has a spotty reputation. Some love it, others hate it. Do you already have it mounted?
I am curious about that because the buffer tube is what holds the buffer retainer in, and if the ACE cannot be screwed in far enough, then you're kinda stuck with this issue repeating... I tend to look for why rather than what failed.
I have an epic set of AR tools, if you're coming to mouseland again soon, bring the AR and we can take it apart and mount most anything.
Re: Rails. I'm looking for something to mount the LaserLyte green laser onto the carbine on the top of the rail and a pistol grip forend underneath.
It sounds like I should save my ducats and buy a quality forend (any thoughts?). Like I said, this is all new territory to me, so I'm starting out pretty fresh.
I do and don't want to turn it into a rail farm, that's the thing. I can appreciate the clean lines of the AR on its own on the one hand; on the other, this *IS* MA so the more crap I can hang on it the more it makes the liberals wet their pants.
Maybe I should get two ARs...
Oh, and pdb?
"If all you want to put on your rails is a laser and / or flashlight, I'd avoid the railed handguard and get either a railed front sight tower block or the one that bolts to the bayonet lug."
You really know how to hurt a guy, you know that?
(actually, the front sight tower block is an intriguing option...)
Im not saying this exact one, but somthing like this sounds like it would do you just fine. I cannot speak to the quality of this one but this is one of your options here. http://www.cabelas.com/p-0054138229150a.shtml It mounts to your standard handguard and is a low cost option and will do what you said you want it for. Just another option.
-Will
I am very impressed with my Bobro VFG. A vastly superior option to my former Tango Down, if only for the complete ease of attachment and removal.
Jay,
I bought a set of UTG hand guards for mine. It's not free floating, but after it mounts like standard hand guards, it has bolts that connect the two halves. I like it, it's secure, and I have a fore end grip and a 4x scope mounted on it. I use it in 3 gun matches and am recommending it as the best of the lower price alternatives. Here's a link to the carbine length, you have get the right one for your rifle:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=316070
If you look at the reviews, there's 25 five star reviews mostly talking about how rock solid they are once they are mounted.
Jay,
As one who has built all of the ARs I have owned sans one... YHM is a very good brand of forend, very reasonable and very well made for the price. The caveat is the fact that a free-floating tube requires disassembly of the barrel, some more than others. Get a top quality, all-steel hand guard removal tool, and the LARGE set of Wheeler Engineering screwdriver bits and handles. A set of roll pin punches are mighty handy also.
You might consider a fixed A1-style buttstock as these were shorter than the A2 and may fit a wider variety of students... One last thing, google the USMC depot manual on the M16 family, you won't regret it!
Buddy
A Texan has to say it I guess, LaRue Tactical rails (they're what angels in Heaven use) plus you get the great armadillo beverage entry tool every Christmas.........
IMNSHO, I'd say to use a free flaot tube (which doesn't HAVE to be a rail farm -- you can get smooth FF tubes that allow you to bolt on short rail sections, if you prefer) for ANY installation that involves precise aiming (BUIS, scope, laser).
I concur with the YHM votes. Decent prices, good product line. They even have a "lightweight" FF rail system that looks pretty good, and won't feel like you have added fishing weights to the front end. (I haven't seen any reviewes on durability of that particular forearm.)
I also recommend a FF tube if you're planning on mounting anything to help control the barrel, such as:
Foregrip
Bipod
Sling, if you want to really crank down on it for stability.
That way, you aren't influencing the barrel with your support accesories.
If you just wanted to mount a flashlight, I'd say a regular old short section of rail on a standard handguard (you can buy "add on" rail sections) is fine.
If the laser is all you want to install, they make rail sections that bolt to the standard front sight assembly. Since the laser will always be there, the minor effect on the barrel will be constant, and thus will be "zeroed" out when you sight the piece in.
Since you're stuck with a non-collabseable stock, I concur with the A1 stock. Seems to fit a wider range of people than the A2 stock. Get one with a butttrap (Since it doesn't fold up, might as well do double duty hauling around some cleaning kit, right?)
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