What I'd like to put together is more of a rifle configuration. 20" heavy barrel, flattop upper for optics, railed handguard nice but not necessary. The rifle would be for mid-range target shooting and varminting if I ever get the chance - something that could make decent groups out to 300 yards or so. I've got a line on a receiver from York Arms - the famed "Conspirator" receiver (more on this later), so it's a matter of putting the pieces-parts together in the manner I'd like on something like this:
Conspirator!
(Wally feels compelled to point out that this *will* be going out for anodizing)
So... With this in mind... What components should I be looking at? Bear in mind that the end result has to be AWB-compliant, so no collapsible stocks. I'd probably opt for a heavy barrel, so the whole flash suppressor/muzzle brake BS wouldn't come into play. The aim would be to have a quasi-precision rifle, so perhaps a Magpul PRS stock with free-float handguard and maybe a nice Ergo grip... Then again, setting it up with a full railed handguard would give more options for optics, grips, and bipods...
Decisions, decisions - what would you choose for this build?
That is all.
19 comments:
White Oak A4 Receiver w/ M4 ramps.
White Oak SDM barrel (20", 1 in 7, fluted to reduce weight).
Yankee Hill Diamond or JP Modular handguards.
Low profile gas block.
Battlecomp or similar.
Magpul PRS Stock, Magpul MOE grip, Magpul MBUS.
Good glass.
If it were me, I would start putting together a SPR.
You can buy a White Oak or RRA complete upper for about what the parts alone cost. ERGO grip. RRA A2 stock.
Why such a long barrel? It isn't necessary. I'd get a 16 inch personally, or maybe an 18.
Try these handguards,
http://ncguns.blogspot.com/2011/10/saturday-in-gun-building-business.html
brutally strong, easy barrel removal for cleaning. You can also buy a spare barrel in another caliber if that appeals to you.
Sean,
I've already got a 16" barrel AR (I should have linked my Bushie...)
Thanks for the recommendations so far - some good stuff to look at; we'll see what eventually shakes out!
It's pricey, but I've really been enjoying my American Trigger Corp gold trigger. It breaks nice a crisp, very much like my M-14.
Just what you need to shoot better than minute-of-berm.
Forgot to mention, unless money is no object, look at the RRA 2 stage National Match trigger. Not adjustable like some even better ones, but if you look around you can buy a kit with the trigger, LPK, and ERGO grip for $150 or less total.
5.56 or 6.8 SPC? Or perhaps .450 Bushmaster? Why not get a 24" Barrel for Prairie Dog when you go to Blogarado? And can you set it up for a Suppressor in the VolksRepublik?
Now that I have reset your thought processes....
5.56, definitely. I've got plenty of magazines and lots of ammo already. Besides, if I was going to get an AR-platform rifle in something other than 5.56, it'd be .308...
As for the 20" vs. 24" barrel, well, when I get to the point that my shooting can make use of the extra barrel length, then I'll worry about it... For now, I'll go with the greater portability of the shorter(ish) barrel.
Suppressor will have to wait until NH, but I can have the same elite group make a matching suppressor once I can legally possess one...
For 300 yd work on paper, I'd suggest 1:8, but if you think you'd like some vermints at that distance, 1:9 would be my choice. I am partial to stainless but chrome moly would do fine- avoid chrome lined for this build.
Handguard - definitely go free float with at least a top integrated rail, and possibly at least a bottom short rail for a bipod but that rail could be detachable. Extruded rail handguards have different cross sections too. Some feel better in your palm, others in your fingertips.
Upper need not be M4, wait until you settle on an M4 barrel extension (which will be less likely on a 20in, and lack of m4 extension is no loss).
Sights should not be plastic.
A GI trigger can be worked well, many of the aftermarkets have a decidedly dedicated feel to them.
-wally
The evil black rifle vector continues to dig in. Excellent. ;)
I personally stay away from DPMS components after getting a earful from a AR smith in my area (the guy that made these). YHM is close enough in price to not matter and it has always done what it says on the tin. Their smooth free float tube works well and allows you to add rails, pivot for a bipod, etc. Or keep it nice and clean up front.
The LPK isn't as critical since you'll almost certainly replace the trigger group. Though I'd still pick Armalight from DSG Arms over DPMS. They're available and worked fine in my latest lower. Though, honestly, I haven't kept up on the new hotness in LPKs. I was just happy to get them after they went scarce a couple years ago. Are they back?
I've got an A2 stock setup in the to-sell box if you'd want it. I picked an ACE instead.
Otherwise, Bravo-Company components have all the latest buzz words and testing, are good to work with and ship quickly. They might even have an upper for you. Unless you have or can borrow all the tools to put everything together, or just want to do it because you can, buying an upper from somebody like BCM isn't that much more money and certainly a lot less time.
Keep posting updates please!
@JayG: Maybe I wasn't as clear as I could have been. What benefit do you think that you will get out of the extra 4 inches of barrel? Figure that you will lose about 200 Feet Per Second of velocity. There is no loss of accuracy with a shorter barrel. I will assume that you are planning on an optic of some sort, so sight radius is not a factor.
Meh, I won't comment on parts. I'll say that I have the tools you are likely to need. Email me about that.
Enjoy her however you build her.
What is your budget? That determines a lot.
For use inside 300 yards, I would never build anything longer than 18 inches, especially if you have already decided on a heavy barrel.
Definitely 1:8, or 1:7, simply so you can use heavy bullets if you so desire. The "overstabilization" controversy has largely been debunked, there is no such thing.
A4 receiver, Geissle trigger. (If you don't do it, you will eventually wish you had, particularly if you try to shoot prairie dogs or precision with it!).
On a budget, I'd go Vortex Viper PST glass, otherwise, Nightforce.
Magpul PRS stock. I'm not a huge Magpul grip fan, so I'd go ERGO grip.
Low profile gas block. I would use round handguards with the ability to mount rails, like Alexander Arms Mark 10, (others make them too) http://www.alexanderarms.com/index.php/products.html
Buy a barrel and extension from any of the reputable makers, you'll be happy.
Use an M16 BCG, they are the right weight.
Heck, depending on your budget, I'd consider a Templar upper. Quick change barrel, you can even buy sets of 5.56, Grendel, and Beowulf!
" The "overstabilization" controversy has largely been debunked, there is no such thing. "
not overstabilization, but spinning a light varmint round at the higer RPMs generated by a faster twist can literally cause the bullet to fly apart. BTDT..
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-SS410-18-Rifle-Length-Upper-Receiver-Group-p/bcm-urg-18%20ss410%20miss-15.htm
BCM has an upper with a stainless 18" barrel with mid-weight profile. Unless you know several people who want to build their own upper, the tools and fixtures to put one together will set you back enough for another piece of gun. My own bag of lower assembly tools didn't cost much, and has been used to assemble 6 or 7 lowers. I'd like one of those barrels/uppers but I'm done building ARs. Really.
Whatever you do it needs a bayonet ;)
Been "bulding" mine up over two years now.
Lothar Walther 18" bbl, 1/8 twist, with the .223 Wylde chamber. This allows the use of both 5.56 NATO and .223 Remington dimensioned cartridges, both with great accuracy and no problems with overpressures.
The barrel is a straight-taper medium weight, so you're not lugging around a bull-barrel boat-anchor. It balances very well. Order it with the M-4 cuts on the barrel extension, and a factory-matched bolt.
I prefer the Ace Skeleton stock, attached to a Mil-Spec buffer tube. Again, a "just right" balance, good rigidity, no plasticy rattles. Like you, I've opted for the Ergo grip. Not perfect, but it's the closest to "right for me" I've found so far.
Chip McCormick drop in trigger. You won't regret it.
Troy "Viking" free float handguard. Integral top rail, a pair of 3" removeable rails on either side, and a 4" removeable rail on the bottom. You can place those removeable rails anywhere "fore or aft" on the handguard, or eliminate them altogether. I opted to place the 4 inch unit at the front-bottom of the 'guard, so I can affix both a slong swivel and a bipod there. Otherwise, the forend is a slim, hand-friendly, vented tube.
Rail on the top-only of the gas block. I want the front sight on the barrel itself, not atop a floating handguard. "Slinging tight" will pull that handguard down a couple hundredths or so, with a resulting change in vertical impact vs. point of aim.
AAC blackout muzzle brake. It, or the Vortec, both are proven accuracy enhancements, in their effect on barrel harmonics.
M-16 spec bolt carrier. A bit heavier than AR-15 spec; it slows the cyclic a wee tad. Likewise with an extra heavy recoil buffer.
Oh, and send off the stripped uppper, along with the entire bolt & carrier assembly, and the barrel extension to Fail-Zero for coating. You WILL NOT regret so doing.
BCM Gunfighter charging handle. Yes, it's important. Especially with optics which might crowd that particular bit of real estate.
With 62gr. or 68gr match ammo, mine is a one-ragged-hole rifle, with five round groups. But, I achieved that with a borrowed Nightforce scope, which I've since returned.
Groups with 55gr. rounds normally are 1/2" to 5/8". Five round groups for all that, not three rounds.
With just a Vortec Strike-Fire red/green dot (2moa dot), it's well..... a 2 moa shooter.
I've yet to settle on the "right for me" set of irons.
You can vary some details from these specs, and you'll still end up with a fine rifle.
But I bet you'd really, really like one built out along these lines. It's a rifleman's precision rifle, that still doesn't outweigh a standard, 20 inch A-2 by much, if any at all.
Jim
Sunk New Dawn
Galveston, TX
Edit to the above.
(fatigue makes a terrible editor)
The Lothar Walther barrel, as described, is stainless.
McCormick's trigger may no longer be available, I'm told. If that's the case, the Geisele (sp?) is highly touted. Though I don't have any direct experience with it, my 'smith and others give it rave reviews.
Like you, I lusted after building a 20" rifle, but after waiting way too long to track down a barrel to my specs in 20", I got the Walther barrel in 18", with a mid-length gas system.
So far, it shoots, works, cleans and carries like a champ. Zero disappointment factor.
Jim
Sunk New Dawn
Galveston, TX
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