So, I mentioned a while back about having a custom AR lower made by Wally? You know, the one violated by Weerd like the TSA violates grandmothers? Well, I've decided I want to take it in a (slightly) different direction. I've talked before about wanting an AR pattern rifle set up for long distance shooting (well, more so than the 50 - 100 yards my Bushmaster currently enjoys). So I'm going to do something about it.
First off, I'm ordering another lower from York Arms. There's a slim chance that this rifle might end up on a hunt of sorts, either hog hunting or varminting, and I'd rather not have the game warden eying the "Fill your hands, you son of a bitch" selector or the "5.56POODLE" caliber. This one will be done by the books, with a traditional caliber designation and a standard "Fire"/"Safe" safety switch. There's some intense discussion with the proprietor of York Arms over the initial lower - I may bite the NFA bullet and SBR it - but that's tabled for now.
So, I have a new lower. I'm going to need, well, everything else to put this rifle together. Stock, trigger, grip, internals, etc. will need to be assembled into a complete lower. I really like the look of the Magpul PRS stock, as it allows for a precise cheek weld and fit; however the ACE Ultralight stock has a minimalist appeal as well as keeping weight down - important for a rifle that may see time in a field. Grip, well, I prefer a molded grip but don't have any favorites. Trigger, well, something light - I really like the Timney in my Savage Model 10.
Once the lower is together, then it's onto the upper. Do I just order up a complete upper, like something from one of the 15 bazillion companies out there in the AR-15 business? Do I pull something together from a stripped upper and get the exact parts and barrel I want? I want something with a fluted/heavy barrel, most likely 20 - 22", and a flattop upper. I want something I can put a decent pair of optics on - I might spring for something from Leupold for this rifle, actually.
I suspect I'd rather just find an upper with the right combination of parts - the right barrel length and composition (I like the looks of the stainless bull barrels; I have no idea if they're any different or better than a standard barrel) and the appeal of being able to just pin it onto the lower and be good to go is quite strong. It's interesting to note that a decent upper can often be more than an entire AR-15 rifle - accuracy, reliability, etc. With the build occurring over time, budget can be a malleable thing, with pieces picked up here and there along the way - so I won't just rule out a higher end upper out of hand.
So what parts would you recommend for a decent hunting/target/varminting AR-15 build?
That is all.
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I would try a Giselle trigger too - their match 2-stage is as good a trigger as I've felt on an AR, and you can get the total weight on it way down.
For uppers, get the barrel from White Oak. If you don't want to assemble it yourself, either
match or varmint will do well.
You can piece together the exact upper you want pretty easily, but ... there's SO MANY good uppers out there to fill so many needs that it doesn't make sense, unless there's some really odd combo you want.
Stainless is great for precision and corrosion resistance, but doesn't have the barrel life of a chrome-lined. If you're not cooking the barrel, it's less of an issue.
Precision/varminting, I'd be looking at an 18- or 20-inch setup, 1/7 or 1/8 twist, with a .223Wylde chamber. That'll let you shoot bulk 5.56 safely, without the excess leade that diminishes .223 accuracy. The higher twist rate will stabilize longer/heavier bullets (62-75gr) for the longer shots, but 55gr bulk will still shoot fine.
Above all, make sure you get a free-float handguard; there's no point in having a sweet barrel and trigger if you're just going to bounce the barrel around on a bipod with every shot.
White Oak has an awesome reputation for accuracy; Rock River has a reputation for value. There are PLENTY of makers out there doing custom-ish work for the cost of a phone call.
(My next upper, somewhere down the road, is going to be the Rock River ATH Carbine. Better pricing is readily available from other dealers.)
The Rock River Arms two stage trigger is life changing. I highly recommend it and RRA has a lower parts kit with that in it for about $200. I know thats steep for a lower parts kit, but for accurate long range shooting you won't regret it.
ZerCool pretty much nailed it on the barrels, if it were my money I'd look for a 1/8, 20" setup. You can build a lower with a hammer, a brass punch, and a six pack, but building an upper requires some special tools and a work bench with a large vise. No point in it unless you are after the experience. I like Stag for complete uppers.
Other thoughts that have tickled through my brain...
- buttstock. Go ahead with the PRS (or even a standard A2). My guess is that if you hunt with this it'll be from a blind, so it's only the walk in and out; weight isn't a huge deal there. The heavier more rigid stock will only improve accuracy overall.
- trigger ... I really have no advice on this one. A generic LPK is hit or miss but can sometimes be stoned to a clean break; a good trigger like a Timney, Geisselle, or RRA 2-stage will set you back two bills or more.
- optics. Leupold is tough to beat these days; I've heard good things about Redfield (which is to Leupold what Toyota is to Lexus) but have no personal experience. I'm considering one of theirs at some point.
I'm looking forward to seeing how this evolves.
I have a Magpul PRS stock on my AR. It is great for target shooting, fully adjustable and heavy. Yes, heavy, I never weighed it but it is a lot heavier than the std A2 stock and heavier than the skeleton stocks. (My rifle with PRS & 24" SS barrel totals 11 1/2 lbs without scope.) The Geissele trigger in my friends AR is the best AR trigger I've ever used. My RR two stage is very good but not as good as the Geissele. 20" SS bull barrel with Wylde chamber. If you buy a barrel separate from the upper, make certain that you buy the bolt from the same folks and specify that you want them headspaced. Full floated handguard for sure.
Magpul makes nice parts and accessories, their hand grips with storage for spare bolt & firing pin are nice and comfortable.
I've a standard A2 Bushie. The following suggestions are based on weapons owned by others that I've handled on the range or in the field.
Varmint: 24" free floating bbl, 1:8 twist to stabilize heavy bullets, flat top to mount your super-duper EagleEye scope.
Hog: The locals in Fla. panhandle (A.K.A. Redneck Riviera)don't use anything smaller than a .308. To use a .223 lower go with the .450 Bushmaster, .458 SOCOM or .50 Beowulf. Only one AR I saw had an optical scope. All the rest had some sort of red-dot sight. These are the choices of people who depend on their rifle to protect their farms and feed their families.
I love the RRA two stage trigger. It's crisp and clean with a solid reset.
Get the Magpul PRS for the stock. I'll take pictures of the varminter I have and send you the specs this weekend.
As I mentioned over on FB, I use it to take 3 and 4 inch boomers at 400 yards. It's accuracy is fantastic. I took 8 boomers in 10 consecutive shots quite rapidly. It looked like a set of dominoes on the hill.
I prefer the 24 inch 1:8. This works well for the loads I get from some friends. 5.56 with 69 grain Serria Match Kings. I haven't tried the 75 grain SMK yet, I don't think I will because the OAL I think will become problematic. That extra length helps boost your muzzle velocity, though it can over stabilize a lighter bullet.
Feel free to bump me an email. I'm more than happy to help you design a rifle. I need you to make it to Boomershoot dammit... and while you're here getting boomers is a requirement. Might as well get the first one started :D. Three is two, two is one, one is none you know.
Stay AWAY from Rock Rivers two stage trigger. Far away. Don't let your friends shoot em.
They break, break break! The stupid useless cheap ass castings fail, and then the nice hammer followers the bolt forward.
The only nice thing is, after you warranty replace them, you can sell the new replacement and not be out too much money.
Giselle's are seemingly bullet proof.
Huh... I thought someone had already linked you to my many, many, many posts on this subject ;-)
Let me find them, and I'll link them over here.
Has anyone actually gotten a lower yet? I haven't, and they don't have a number to call on their website and they haven't replied to e-mails since they got my money. I know it's crazy right now and all, but they seriously have the worst customer service I've ever seen. At this point I would be happy to simply get my money back.
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